Modern Anti-Aging Medicine: Which Treatments Really Work

Beyond those, antioxidants such as vitamin E and niacinamide can protect the skin from oxidative stress. Hyaluronic acid is primarily valuable for keeping the skin well hydrated. Peptides and growth factors are also very exciting — and are currently the subject of intensive research.

Does sensitive skin need different care than normal skin?

Absolutely. Skincare should always be tailored to the individual skin type. That is why I would always start with a skin analysis before making any recommendations — ideally carried out together with an experienced medical esthetician or dermatologist, so you can determine which active ingredients the skin genuinely tolerates well.

Retinol and its derivatives in particular should be introduced gradually. I generally recommend starting with a low concentration just once a week and slowly increasing use from there. This usually prevents skin irritation.

Another important point: not every active ingredient can be combined with every other. When it comes to so-called layering, people often overdo it. I firmly believe that less is frequently more. What matters is a carefully chosen selection of active ingredients suited to the individual skin type.

At What Age Should You Start Anti-Aging Skincare?

When should someone begin a targeted anti-aging skincare routine?

Ideally, between the ages of 20 and 25. We know that the body's own collagen production begins to gradually decline around the mid-twenties. Even more important than any anti-aging ingredient, however, is consistent UV protection — and that should start in childhood.

Those who start early with a skincare routine suited to their skin type can begin incorporating selected active ingredients even at a young age. Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, for example, is a very well-tolerated antioxidant that works well in the morning. In the evening, retinol — vitamin A — is a good choice. This is rounded out by a moisturizer that adapts to the season, age, and hormonal changes in the skin.

Many people invest a great deal of time in caring for their face, while the neck and hands are often neglected. Why do these areas tend to age particularly quickly?

It's true — most people focus almost exclusively on the face. The neck and hands are frequently overlooked, even though they age just as much.

The hands in particular are subjected to significant stress every day. Frequent washing, disinfectants, and cold weather all dry out the skin. At the same time, both the hands and neck have far fewer sebaceous glands than the face, making it harder for them to replenish their own moisture.

That is why the hands can really benefit from particularly intensive care. In winter especially, I recommend rich creams, ideally containing urea. People with very dry skin can even apply their moisturizer and then wear cotton gloves overnight. The neck also benefits from an intensely nourishing overnight mask from time to time.

Why Sleep, Nutrition, and Gut Health Are So Important for the Skin

Alongside skincare and treatments, longevity, nutrition, and sleep are playing an increasingly prominent role today. Which factors are truly decisive when it comes to the skin?

For me, good sleep is one of the single most important factors. While we sleep, the body's regenerative processes run at full speed — and the skin benefits directly from this. At the same time, adequate sleep is one of the most underestimated health factors today. Many people believe they can get by on just a few hours, but over time, the body pays a real price for that.

That is why I often tell my patients: preventing skin aging is not a sprint, it's a marathon. Anyone who wants to do something genuinely beneficial for their skin over the long term needs to pay attention to good sleep hygiene.

A balanced diet is equally important. The gut and skin are closely connected — changes in the gut can often manifest in the skin as well. Exercise also plays a major role: it improves circulation, among other things, while also supporting stress reduction and recovery.

Which Diet Is Especially Beneficial for the Skin?

Which foods do you recommend for healthy skin — and which should one avoid as much as possible?

Above all, it is essential that the diet suits the individual and is sustainable in the long run. In my experience, strict diets rarely work permanently. Far more important is a healthy lifestyle that one can realistically maintain over the years.

Well-established recommendations include omega-3 fatty acids, a protein-rich diet, and plenty of antioxidant-rich foods. I also encourage a diet that is as low in inflammation as possible.

Sugar, on the other hand, is something I view critically. Our bodies have no need for added sugar. There is now a substantial body of scientific research showing that high sugar consumption can negatively affect cell metabolism. Sugar should therefore be reduced as much as possible.

Which foods top your personal list of recommendations?

Berries and a wide variety of vegetables come highly recommended — as fresh and minimally processed as possible. That said, people who cannot shop for fresh produce every day need not worry. Frozen berries and frozen vegetables are an excellent alternative, as the rapid freezing process often preserves vitamins particularly well.

In recent years, the microbiome has come increasingly into focus. What role does gut health play for our skin?

The microbiome plays a very important role for the entire organism. When it falls out of balance, this can affect many areas of the body — including the skin.

The subject is complex, however. The microbiome cannot simply be assessed with a single test — it requires specialized diagnostics and experience. Research in this area is also still evolving.

After antibiotic treatment or certain infections in particular, it can take a considerable amount of time for the balance in the gut to stabilize again. In such cases, I frequently work in an interdisciplinary way with relevant specialists, because many skin problems cannot be permanently resolved through creams or external treatments alone.

Many women notice significant changes in their skin during menopause at the latest. Can hormone replacement therapy be beneficial?

Yes, it can be very helpful — though not for every woman. The topic has gone through different phases in recent years: initially, hormone replacement therapy was viewed rather critically, and later it became almost standard practice in some circles.

I believe an individualized approach is the right path. Hormone therapy should always be planned and regularly reviewed in consultation with an experienced gynecologist or endocrinologist. Not every woman needs hormones, and not every woman is medically able to take them — but every woman deserves the opportunity to receive individualized advice.

Which Dietary Supplements Are Worth Taking?

The market for dietary supplements is growing rapidly. Which supplements do you personally recommend?

The market is now enormous. At the same time, we should not let dietary supplements overshadow the fundamentals, which remain decisive. Adequate sleep, regular exercise, a balanced diet, and a healthy body weight cannot be replaced by any pill.

Once that foundation is in place, dietary supplements can be useful in individual cases. Personally, I consider magnesium to be very important — both in relation to sleep and exercise. A vitamin B complex can also be beneficial during certain phases of life.

In general, however, I advise against taking supplements indiscriminately. Today, we can measure lab values very accurately, so it is worth first establishing whether an actual deficiency exists. Targeted supplementation can then follow, with subsequent monitoring to check whether the intake has had the desired effect. Simply taking dietary supplements indefinitely without knowing whether they are actually needed is not something I consider sensible.

Which Skincare Trends Do You Currently Consider Truly Worthwhile?

What developments are you currently observing in skincare?

Retinol and its derivatives remain among the most important active ingredients and have made a well-deserved comeback in recent years.

Exosomes are also generating a great deal of discussion right now. It is an exciting area of research, but we still need more scientific data. A key consideration is also how these active ingredients actually penetrate the skin — particularly with creams, the question often arises whether they reach deep enough to exert their effect.

Another trend I genuinely appreciate: many people are moving away from overly complex skincare routines. Rather than using ten different products, the approach today is increasingly: Less is more. A small selection of high-quality, individually chosen active ingredients is, in my view, far more sensible than reaching for as many products as possible at once.

Where Is Aesthetic Dermatology Heading?

How will aesthetic dermatology change in the years ahead?

Aesthetic medicine is becoming increasingly medical, holistic, and long-term in its thinking. In my view, there is no such thing as a single quick fix. Consistency is what counts. Anyone who wants to achieve something lasting for their skin needs to commit to it regularly.

At the same time, collaboration between different specialties is becoming ever more important. Healthy skin does not come from a single cream or a single treatment. Prevention, regeneration, and medical therapies all work together and should be tailored individually to each patient's needs.

The future therefore belongs to personalized medicine. Treatments are becoming increasingly individualized, taking the whole person into account — not just isolated skin changes.