© MarieAge
August 14, 2024
Judith Cyriax
The extracellular particles are considered communication geniuses of our body – and also the latest anti-aging miracle, as they help reduce the signs of skin aging.
With
Dr. med. Timm Golüke
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They are considered great hopes in medicine for tracking down diseases and also for being able to heal them (better). At the same time, they themselves are only tiny: Exosomes – particles a few millionths of a millimeter in size, which are responsible for communication between cells and are also on the move as biomarker transporters.
They were only discovered in 1983 and found little interest in research until the early 2000s. This changed rapidly as more and more of the potential of the tiny particles was recognized. While there were only 115 scientific publications on exosomes in 2006, by 2015 there were already over 1,000.
Above all, the realization that extracellular vesicles are significantly involved in numerous mechanisms of the organism, from immune-mediated reactions to wound healing processes, provides promising research approaches. The range extends from improved diagnostics to regenerative medicine, to the development of novel cancer therapies and vaccines. The greatest hope lies in synthetically produced exosomes.
In laboratory experiments, it has already been possible to accelerate the formation of new blood vessels, which in turn could allow tissue regeneration, for example after operations, to take place faster. Another experiment allowed donor skin to heal significantly faster.
The Exosome from the test tube also have the advantage that they are easier to produce than through synthesis from natural sources. They can also be personalized for patients depending on the application and used with absolute precision.
It is actually not surprising that the fascination for the possible applications of the tiny particles has already reached the beauty industry. After all, the trend has been shifting more and more towards the body's own substances or mechanisms when a more youthful or fresher skin appearance is desired.
At this year's IMCAS Paris, one of the world's largest and leading congresses in the field of plastic surgery and dermatology, exosomes were therefore the dominant topic of conversation. "The so-called autologous exosomes represent a completely new, exciting topic with enormous potential," notes Dr. Stefan Duve a specialist in dermatology. Their crucial role in cell-to-cell communication and their sophisticated transport function make them so interesting.
Because almost all processes in the body require a coordinated interaction of cells, for example, to form and blood vessels or to collaborate in immune responses. "This is exactly where exosomes come into play," explains dermatologist . "They transport bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids, or nucleic acids, the storage of genetic information, which are important for coordinating cellular processes and regulating physiological functions in the body. In the skin, exosomes also take on important tasks, especially when it comes to maintaining skin health and function," says Golüke.
And further: "They transmit anti-inflammatory signals, for example, thereby reducing inflammations in the skin and helping to alleviate conditions such as psoriasis, acne, or eczema." Furthermore, exosomes - similar to stem cells - are carriers for growth factors that not only promote collagen production, thereby improving skin structure, but as mentioned earlier, stimulate wound healing and tissue regeneration.
Smooths the skin's appearance: "Glowskin Daily Resurfacing Pads" by Dr. Duve
Protects thanks to Astaxanthin: "Age-Repair Moisturiser" by Grown Alchemist
Potent mix of Vitamin A, C and Hyaluronic Acid: "Phytoactive Anti-Aging Rich Cream" by Royal Fern
And so aesthetic dermatology is now also taking advantage of these little all-rounders and focusing on effective treatments. The treatment with autologous exosomes, which Dr. Golüke offers in his Munich practice, is completely new. "Similar to the PRP treatment with autologous blood, blood is first drawn from the patient. This is centrifuged, the exosomes are extracted and, after a classic microneedling or even radiofrequency microneedling, quickly applied to the skin."
The effect of this minimally invasive treatment: Once introduced into the skin, they stimulate the body's natural regeneration processes, thereby reducing, for example, sun damage and signs of skin aging.
Even in the treatment of hair loss, the effectiveness of exosomes can prove itself, as they promote the health of hair follicles and stimulate hair growth. The clear advantage over surgical hair transplantation: The exosome therapy is non-invasive and gentle, without pain and longer downtime.
And what about exosomes from the cream jar? Here, specialist Dr. Golüke has a clear opinion: "Exosomes are hardly durable, which is why they do not survive long in a cosmetic product. Therefore, over-the-counter products rely on exosomes of plant origin, such as the rose stem cell. However, whether these interact effectively with the human cell, I strongly doubt." Proven effective ingredients – according to the guidelines of the Society for Dermopharmacy e.V. – already exist.
Astonishingly, however, these are not as many as one might think when standing in front of the bulging shelves of anti-aging products. "As the gold standard in anti-aging cosmetics, retinol or retinol derivatives can clearly be seen, as they have a large repertoire when it comes to skin protection and skin care," says Dr. Duve.
Retinol significantly increases collagen and elastin synthesis, reduces UV-induced collagen damage, and demonstrably reduces wrinkle depth. Another high performer in anti-aging cosmetics is Hyaluronic acid , moisture booster and store in one, known for its plump immediate effect. Vitamin C, in turn, stimulates new collagen formation and reduces hyperpigmentation, Niacinamide increases skin elasticity and reduces blemishes, Peptides improve cell renewal.
Vitamin E protects the skin from free radicals and fruit acids (AHAs and PHAs) take care of a pure and slightly tightened complexion. In addition to the proven classics, there are also a few new talents, such as the substance obtained from a microalga Astaxanthin Its antioxidant effect is 6000 times higher than that of vitamin C, making it particularly effective in combating free radicals.
The molecule ectoin, in turn, binds a great deal of moisture and stabilizes cells against harmful environmental influences. Similar to exosomes, Dr. Duve thinks little of plant-based Botox alternatives from cream jars: "From a medical point of view, this is extremely misleading. Active ingredients in beauty products can never achieve the same smoothing or plumping results as an injection with botulinum toxin or fillers."
Firms with bio-peptides: "Nutri Lifting" by Dr. Grandel With triple hyaluronic acid: "Hydro Cellular Hyaluron Infusion" by Dr. Babor Vitamin C clarifies the complexion: "Capture Youth Glow Booster" by Dior Strengthens the skin barrier: "Lift Define Radiance Night Concentrate" by Shiseido
With triple hyaluronic acid: "Hydro Cellular Hyaluron Infusion" by Dr. Babor
Vitamin C clarifies the complexion: "Capture Youth Glow Booster" from Dior
Strengthens the skin barrier: "Lift Define Radiance Night Concentrate" by Shiseido
