How salmon sperm is revolutionizing skincare

In the search for ever new active ingredients intended to rejuvenate and enhance the skin, both the cosmetics industry and aesthetic medicine often take unexpected paths, offering substances and treatments that may seem quite exotic at first glance. The latest coup: a facial with salmon sperm. Initially celebrity treatment that appeared on social networks, more and more doctors offer these treatments in their practices as effective skin enhancers.

But what exactly can one imagine by that? "There's nothing sleazy about it," says Dr. Lukas Kohler, a plastic-aesthetic surgeon from Munich. "Because, of course, no pure salmon sperm is used; instead the skin is treated with so-called polynucleotides derived from it." Polynucleotides are macromolecules consisting of many interconnected nucleotides, the chemical collective term for DNA and RNA, and these can be relatively easily isolated from fish sperm.

Is salmon sperm good for the skin?

But does this process really work, or is it just a short-lived phenomenon? We remember: Cosmetic manufacturers already advertised with care products made from snail slime, which, however, quickly lost their appeal. According to Dr. Kohler, polynucleotides are indeed extremely effective. “They are not a new hype product, but have been used successfully for years in the field of skin renewal and regeneration.” As early as 2017, a scientific study was published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, which showed that injections with polynucleotides sustainably improved the elasticity and skin moisture in the participating subjects.

“Polynucleotides create an ideal environment for our fibroblasts, those cells that are the main component of connective tissue. Their area of responsibility is the formation of proteins, specifically the formation of new collagen. And the more collagen there is in the skin, the firmer, more elastic, and fresher it looks,” says the specialist.

What can be expected from the salmon sperm treatment?

“This universally applicable product is only injected into the top layer of skin, the dermis, providing even hydration and more volume. Ideal for those who are still hesitant about major facial changes but desire a beautiful glow that lasts a few months,” explains Dr. Kohler.

However, they are not only the ideal skin booster but are also used in the treatment of acne scars and hyperpigmentation, as their regenerative powers are particularly effective. A treatment with polynucleotides derived from fish sperm costs around 300 euros.

© Freepik

Anti-aging from the sea

Sea creatures not only score with polynucleotides in terms of our beauty, but also a part of their digestive system – the intestine – proves to be a true friend of the skin. Studies by the journal ACS Omega of the “American Chemical Society” showed that the gut microbes of red and black seabream produce molecules that on one hand lighten hyperpigmentation and on the other hand can reduce wrinkles.

More precisely, these molecules inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for increased melanin production. Additionally, they block the enzyme collagenase, which in turn breaks down collagen, resulting in fewer wrinkles. This discovery is particularly interesting for the cosmetics industry, as it could lead to new ingredients that are a natural alternative to chemically produced ingredients. Beautiful appearance: Fish silver

Another fishy ingredient used in cosmetics, especially in makeup products, is guanine, also known as fish silver. In its crystalline form, it is found in fish scales and gives products shine and shimmer. It is obtained from the scales of herring, sardine, or bleak.

The fish silver crystals are separated from the fish scales and purified using organic solvents, and then used to add shimmer to lipstick, nail polish, and eyeshadow. Often, guanine is hidden in the so-called INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) under the name 'Pearl Essence'.

.

Close kinship – fish skin in medicine

"The original field of application for polynucleotides is in burn medicine," says Dr. Kohler. Meanwhile, another part of the fish has a particularly effective use here: the fish skin. More specifically, the cod skin from the European Nordic Sea, which is used in transplant surgery, but also in the treatment of large wounds, for example in diabetes therapy.

Studies have found that there is no risk of disease transmission between cold-water fish and humans, which is why fish skin does not need to be sterile. However, it is important that it is processed gently in order to retain its natural structure. Why? When viewed under a microscope, it is very similar to human skin with its loose structure and large pores.

"Like human skin, fish skin also consists of epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. From an evolutionary perspective, our skin is identical to fish skin, with the only difference being that fish skin has scales, which have developed into hair in human skin," explains Icelandic inventor Fertram Sigurjons-son. He has developed a process that preserves the chemistry and structure of cod skin to maintain the healing properties of fish skin. When fish skin is applied to wounds, human skin immediately begins to react with it by human skin cells settling and multiplying in the pores of the fish skin.

Additional benefit of fish skin: The omega-3fatty acids abundantly present in it inhibit inflammation, kill bacteria, and even protect against viruses. They also promote the formation of new blood vessels. And so, since 2022, the fish skin of North Atlantic cod has been officially approved as a medical product in the EU.